Researchers have identified several plant-derived ingredients with scientifically validated anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties for use in skincare formulations.
The findings stem from the EU-funded InnCoCells project, which included Finland’s VTT Technical Research Centre scientists and 16 partners across 11 European countries.
It was described by the centre as one of the “most comprehensive scientific exploration of plant-based cosmetic ingredients ever conducted”.
The 4.5-year initiative, backed by the EU’s Horizon 2020 programme with funding of €7.9m ($9.20m), sought to create sustainable systems for producing bioactive plant-based compounds for cosmetics.
With coordination from VTT, the project screened more than 100 plant extracts for their impact on 20 biomarkers linked to skin inflammation and ageing, identifying approximately 25 extracts suitable for further development.
According to the statement, unlike earlier research focusing on single isolated compounds, the project applied a “broad, systematic screening approach”.
The extracts can be obtained from plants cultivated in greenhouses, plant cell and tissue cultures grown in bioreactors, or agricultural side-streams, supporting environmental sustainability, as per the statement.
Their ecological and commercial feasibility was assessed through life cycle and techno-economic analyses.
Among the leading discoveries were cell culture extracts from Cochlearia danica (Danish scurvygrass), Capsicum chinense (a tropical pepper), and hairy roots of Ocimum basilicum (basil).
The C. danica extract delivered stronger anti-inflammatory, anti-aeging and antimicrobial results than several commonly used single-compound ingredients.
Extracts from C. chinense inhibited harmful skin bacteria, and offered anti-ageing benefits without provoking irritation.
Basil hairy root extracts inhibited collagenase and hyaluronidase, indicating they could help reduce visible signs of ageing while maintaining skin hydration.
VTT and its partners are now exploring commercial routes to bring these ingredients to market and working with manufacturers to incorporate them into skincare formulations.
The InnCoCells consortium includes 17 organisations — comprising universities, research institutes, small businesses, a large company, and sectoral bodies — from 11 European countries.
The project integrated plant science, biotechnology, and cultivation techniques such as greenhouse, aeroponic, and plant cell culture technologies, alongside circular approaches like upcycling agricultural by-products.
VTT InnCoCells coordinator Kirsi-Marja Oksman-Caldentey said: “These findings highlight how nature and science can come together to create the next generation of cosmetic ingredients.
“For the first time, we are building a pipeline of ingredients that combine scientifically proven skin benefits with responsible, scalable production. This direction reflects what consumers and the beauty industry are actively seeking, while also aligning with the wider goals of the European bioeconomy.”
