For anyone concerned about skin ageing, collagen supplements may seem like the holy grail. The promise is bold: individuals can halt or even reverse the development of wrinkles, with no need for expensive cosmetic treatments. What’s more, taking these supplements can notionally improve the appearance of hair and nails, ease joint pain and even boost joint mobility.

In a world that greatly values the appearance of youth, it’s no surprise that the collagen supplements market is booming. According to Mordor Intelligence, its value is expected to surge from $5.94bn in 2024 to $8.59bn in 2029, representing a compound annual growth rate of 7.66%. Consisting mostly of liquids and powders, along with some collagen-infused drinks, the market is evolving fast.

All this said, some consumers have questioned whether the promise is too good to be true – after all, any supplement purporting to be the fountain of youth is bound to set off warning bells. It’s clear that claims of this nature ought to be taken with a pinch of salt, even if collagen supplements do have wellattested benefits.

“I would advise that taking collagen supplements is a personal choice which may have some benefits, but further research is needed in the area,” says Dr Jonathan Kentley, a consultant dermatologist at the British Cosmetic Dermatology Group. “While there is some evidence for their use and they are very safe, they also tend to be quite expensive which is an important consideration given that these supplements must be taken long-term.”

Collagen provides structure to skin and joints, but declines with age. Supplements aim to replenish it, potentially reducing wrinkles and joint pain. Image Credit: fotaro100/ www.Shutterstock.com

How does it work?

So, what exactly is collagen and what’s the idea behind supplementation? Accounting for about 30% of your body’s total protein – and making up around three-quarters of your skin – it’s found in the skin, muscles, bones and connective tissues, as well as within the internal organs. It has various functions, chiefly to provide structure, strength and support, and it’s what gives younger people their dewy skin.

“There is a natural balance between production and breakdown of collagen, but as we age more collagen is broken down than produced, eventually leading to sagging and wrinkling of the skin,” notes Kentley. “Over the age of 30, we lose roughly one per cent of our body’s collagen per year, and the rate of loss rises significantly following menopause.”

While this loss is mostly inevitable, various lifestyle and environmental factors can further accelerate the breakdown. These include exposure to ultraviolet light, smoking, air pollution, and eating too much sugar and refined carbs.

Starting in the 1980s, scientists began to wonder whether ingested collagen peptides could function in the same way as the collagen we produce, making up some of the shortfall. In 1985, a Polish team successfully extracted collagen from fish skin, using a technique called hydrolysation to preserve its delicate bonds.

While the idea of absorbing collagen directly is an attractive proposition, it doesn’t work quite that way. Collagen molecules are too big to be taken up by the bloodstream, meaning they need to be broken down by enzymes into smaller fragments called peptides. (Hydrolysed collagen is already broken down into peptides, saving the body some work and improving the ease of absorption.)

These fragments are used by the body to synthesise new proteins. In theory, they could make their way directly to the dermis of the skin, where they come back together to replenish collagen levels.

The booming collagen supplements market promises youthful skin and joint relief, but experts say results vary and further research is needed to confirm long-term benefits. Image Credit: Erhan Inga/ www.Shutterstock.com

As critics have argued, there is no guarantee that the building blocks will rebuild in quite the same way, nor in quite the places you want them. What’s more, while collagen supplements do contain all the raw materials needed for the body to make collagen, you could obtain those same materials (amino acids) from your regular diet. All this said, there may be something special that happens with ingested collagen.

“Experiments in mice seem to show that these collagen fragments are deposited in the skin and result in increased expression of genes related to skin development and increased collagen levels,” says Kentley. “Once in the skin, these fragments act as the building blocks for fibroblasts to produce new collagen.”

According to Dr Emilia Pasiah, a California-based physician with an expertise in dermatology, there may be other mechanisms at play too. “Some studies suggest that collagen supplements can inhibit the activity of enzymes that break down collagen in the skin, thereby preserving existing collagen fibres,” she says.

It seems that the collagen fragments also stimulate fibroblasts to produce other proteins. These include elastin (responsible for skin elasticity) and hyaluronic acid (responsible for skin hydration) – a potent mix for anyone looking to recapture their youthful glow.

What does the evidence say?

Although there is little evidence to support marketing claims around the hair and nails, there are plenty of studies that show benefits for the skin. One 2020 research paper published in the ‘Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology’ gave freshwater marine collagen, or a placebo, to a group of women for 12 weeks. Compared to the placebo group, the collagen group experienced improvements in skin elasticity, hydration and radiance, and a significant reduction in wrinkles.

A 2024 study, which looked at 116 women over three months, found that 83.6% of them saw an improvement after taking collagen supplements. More compelling still, is a 2021 meta-analysis of 19 randomised, placebo-controlled trials, which involved 1,125 participants in total. It concluded that ‘ingestion of hydrolysed collagen for 90 days is effective in reducing skin ageing, as it reduces wrinkles and improves skin elasticity and hydration.’

$8.59bn Predicted value of collagen supplements market in 2029, representing a compound annual growth rate of 7.66%. Mordor Intelligence

Pasiah finds this evidence base convincing, remarking that multiple studies have shown the same kind of result. “I would recommend collagen supplements to patients who are concerned about skin ageing, with a moderate to high level of confidence, based on the current supportive clinical evidence,” she says.

$8.59bn
Predicted value of collagen supplements market in 2029, representing a compound annual growth rate of 7.66%.
Mordor Intelligence

Kentley, however, sounds a note of caution, pointing out that most of these studies were performed on small groups of patients for a short period of time. The 2020 study, for instance, may have been ‘randomised, triple-blind and placebocontrolled’, but there were only 36 participants altogether. What’s more, most of these studies were sponsored by industry, which could have biased their findings.

“It is important to be aware most studies were paid for by companies which produce oral collagen supplements,” he says. “All were performed in different ways using different products in different amounts with highly variable results, making them difficult to compare. While there are measurements showing improvement in multiple signs of skin ageing it is difficult to know how this translates into clinical practice.”

As for the claims that collagen may improve joint pain, these do have some scientific backing. One 2018 study involving 120 people gave half its subjects a placebo, and the other half 90 days of collagen. The collagen group experienced an impressive 43% reduction in joint pain and a 39% improvement in joint mobility, as well as a 40% increase in skin elasticity.

There have also been studies looking at collagen for osteoarthritis, some of which have returned positive results. One of these, published in 2019, reviewed five placebo-controlled trials and concluded that ‘collagen is effective in improving [osteoarthritis] symptoms.’ However, a subsequent letter to the editor disputed these findings, remarking that all the trials included were small and that their results were ‘very heterogeneous’. Overall, the evidence base here is mixed, and it’s too early to conclude anything with any certainty.

More than just hype

Pasiah points out that not all supplements are made alike. She advises consumers to choose high-quality hydrolysed supplements from a reputable brand, which are sustainably sourced and have been tested in clinical trials. This should be in conjunction with a solid skincare routine and a healthy lifestyle.

“I would advise patients that individual results can vary and that while many people see benefits, the degree of improvement may differ based on factors like age, genetics, and overall health,” she adds.

Kentley agrees that taking collagen supplements should not be a standalone approach. Rather, it could be used as part of a wider strategy for limiting collagen breakdown as we age. “This includes maintaining a healthy diet, avoiding sun exposure where possible and using sunscreen, not smoking, and considering use of an antioxidant and retinoid,” he says.

He adds that most commercially available collagen supplements are derived from animal sources, often fish bones or scales, making them unsuitable for vegetarians or those with allergies. While there are vegan products on the market, consisting simply of the amino acids needed to make collagen, Kentley thinks the evidence for their effectiveness is much more limited.

Overall, it would be fair to say that the excitement around collagen is more than just empty hype. While it is unlikely collagen supplements are any kind of elixir, anecdotally a lot of people do find them helpful. And with a fast-growing range of products attracting a loyal customer base, the market is unlikely to die down any time soon.